In our age of genetically modified, chemically dependent agriculture, growing our own food is not only self-satisfying, it’s good for the planet. Besides being able to harvest truly fresh, delectable, nutritious produce, the energy used to ship vegetables is virtually eliminated and that patch of lawn that contributed nothing but a need to be mowed and watered can finally be put to good use.
Raising vegetables takes planning, persistence, and some hard work, but the rewards are tremendous.

Fava beans.

Freshly picked produce.

Salad fixin’s.

Location Is Everything
The size of your garden depends on what you want to grow and how much time you have. For novice gardeners, a small, easily managed plot is recommended. Choose the sunniest spot in your yard because most plants need at least six hours of sunshine a day. If your site is mostly shade or you have no yard, consider planting in containers that can be moved with the sun or placed on south-facing porches (plants that do well in pots include tomatoes, peppers and eggplant).

Plan Ahead
Once the site is located but before ground is broken, sketch out a birds-eye-view plan, keeping in mind the mature sizes of selected plants, arranging them so that shorter plants don’t lose out on light. Close placement shades the soil for optimal root growth and discourages weeds, but check placement recommendations for the varieties you’ve chosen. Remember that some greens, like lettuce, will need some shade from the hot midday sun, so plan accordingly.

Make the beds small enough so it’s easy to pull weeds and reach every plant from designated paths, without having to walk on the beds themselves. Instead of planting in rows, try triangular or hexagonal spacing to maximize the number of plants grown, and make use of edges. Also consider inter-planting different crops so that more crops can be grown in the same area. For example, carrots may be planted with lettuce, which shades the soil and keeps it moist, allowing for easier germination of the carrot seedlings. Later, when the lettuce is harvested, the carrots fill the space. If planning in early spring, you will be able to grow cool-weather crops like fava beans, kale, chard and peas. But summer gardens can be planted as late as June; so don’t despair if you’re still contemplating those vine-ripened tomatoes.

Soil Health
Fertile, well-drained soil is crucial for plant health, so take time to improve the soil. First, obtain a soil test to determine fertilizer needs and soil pH (inexpensive pH test kits can also be used). Then add amendments in accordance with soil test recommendations. Finally, dig at least two to three inches of organic compost into a weeded plot that has been cleared of large rocks, grass and non-decomposed roots. Clay soils will be most in need of compost, but any soil will benefit. Be sure to use stakes or trellises for plants that need support like cucumbers, runner beans, and tomatoes.

After plants are tucked in, be sure to water consistently, since erratic watering can stress plants and make them susceptible to disease and pests. Except for tiny seedlings, it’s best to water deeply and infrequently, rather than shallowly and daily. And never water during midday when evaporation rates are high; early morning watering, preferably with soaker hoses, is most beneficial. Before the summer heats up and after a thorough watering, apply mulch around plants to keep moisture in and weeds out.

Natural Controls
When soil is kept rich and healthy and varieties that do well in the Northwest are grown, pests and diseases will be less common. If pests do cause some damage, you can fight back by attracting beneficial (or predatory) insects and birds to your yard. For example, if aphids are a problem, plant dill and tansy to attract ladybugs and lacewings, which feed on aphids. Crop rotation is also important, so that the possibility of disease is minimized: Each year, alternate heavy feeders (most vegetable crops), light feeders (most root crops) and soil-building crops (such as nitrogen-fixing legumes).

Continuing Education
Volumes have been written on growing vegetables, so keep reading. Learn about pollinators, experiment with different varieties, and teach kids how food gets to the table. Once you grow your own, you’ll never look back.

Tips
• To obtain a soil test, visit A&L Western Agriculture Labs’ website at www.al-labs-west.com/turf.htm#1
• Since organic amendments are generally slow working, it’s best to mix them into the soil several weeks before planting.
• Most garden vegetables thrive at a pH of 6 to 7. To lower the pH, add sulfur according to manufacturer’s directions. To increase alkalinity, add ground limestone.
• If pressed for space, don’t plant large vegetables like artichokes, corn, and zucchini. Opt for varieties that are either expensive to buy in the grocery store or are particularly good when picked fresh, like carrots, cucumbers, and tomatoes.
• To stimulate extra root growth on tomato plants, remove lower leaves and bury the stems so that about half the stem remains above ground.
• Use a compost bin to create organic compost and get rid of kitchen waste and grass clippings.

Eileen Stark is owner of Second Nature Garden Design in Portland, OR. She can be reached at 503-467-8545 or sngd@comcast.net.