They say there are no straight lines in nature, but clean, straight lines set painting projects apart. They distinguish the amateur from the professional. While painter’s tape can help, it does not guarantee sharp lines. A common thought amongst painters is that the longer a painter paints, the less painter’s tape they use.
For clean edges without tape, most painters rely on a good quality angle brush with thin, crisp, tight bristles. They paint at eye level, not reaching overhead. For control they put their shoulder into their work as much as their wrist and elbow. They avoid heavy pressure on the brush because it splays the bristles and makes the paint smear. They slide the brush quickly off the surface when they move to re-load the brush.
Most painters do not tape windows, preferring to use a painter’s razor to clean up paint on the glass. They also understand that on exterior surfaces, the paint must go over the chalking/glaze to the windowpane to seal the surface.
What About Masking Tape?
Paper masking tape to protect surfaces from paint was created by Dick Drew at 3M in 1925. When it was invented, oil-based paint dominated the market. As the paint market shifted to latex, water-based paint, paper masking tape became less effective in masking areas.
Because latex paint is thinner (has low viscosity) compared to oil-based paint, it can easily flow under the tape, resulting in what is referred to as “paint bleed” or the frustrating jagged/fuzzy painted edge.
One of the newest painter’s tape on the market is based on a cross-linked, sodium-based super absorbent polymer (SAP). Basically, this tape is formulated for use with water-based paint and can absorb and retain a large amount of liquid relative to itself. This tape absorbs the moisture in latex paints, creating a micro-barrier along the tape’s edges and prevents the paint from bleeding under the tape.
Another new product helpful for painters is a masking tape and plastic film system on the market that allows tape and masking film to unroll simultaneously to protect a surface and create a taped edge in one pass. This product is good for masking and covering broader areas where protection from paint roller splatter and overspray is needed.
Painter’s tapes in handy re-fillable applicators are now available and help do-it-yourselfers lay a continuous strip of tape in one step. Reading the packaging is a must when it comes to buying painter’s tape. Every tape has a purpose and tape color is not key to that purpose.
Read the Tape Label to Answer the Following Questions:
• How wide is the tape? Tape is available in ¾”, 1”, 1 ½”, and 2” widths.
• Is the tape compatible to the surface that is being painted? For example wood, stucco, brick, metal, plastic, drywall, wallpaper, etc.
• Is the specified removal time for the tape appropriate for the project’s completion? Painter’s tape is rated by how many days it can be left up without leaving residue on the surface being taped. It is usually available in one, three, seven, 14, 30, and 60-day ratings. The longer-rated tapes typically have less adhesive.
• Is it suitable for interior and/or exterior application because it has weather and/or sunlight resistance? (Interior painting around windows and window casings needs tape with UV protection if the surface will receive direct sunlight.)
• Can the tape be applied to freshly painted surfaces or is it for a cured surface? (Fresh paint is considered paint that is less than 30 days old.)
• How do the disclaimers on the packaging influence the project’s outcome? (For example: the packaging states what surfaces not to use the tape on.)
Tips for using painter’s tape:
• Test the tape on an inconspicuous spot to be certain it will not damage the surface. Poorly bonded surfaces like flocked wallpaper and drywall can be damaged easily.
• Before applying the tape make sure the surface is clean and dry. (The tape performs poorly on cold or damp surfaces.)
• Don’t attempt to paint a straight line on a glossy painted finish. Instead cut the gloss by washing the surface with a commercial deglosser or a solution of TSP (trisodium phosphate), following the packaging directions. Rinse, let dry, and apply the tape.
• Pull the tape off the roll one to two feet at a time. Avoid stretching the tape. The flexible crepe backing cannot mold to curved surfaces if it is stretched. To promote a firm seal go over the edge of the tape with the back of a spoon or a plastic putty knife. Press from the outer edge inward.
• Paint the tape with the background (first) color and let it dry. Then paint the next color. The background color will seal the tape, helping to prevent paint bleed (jagged edge). A clear acrylic will also seal down the tape edge if no background color is available.
• Remove the tape when the paint is dry by pulling the tape back over itself at a moderate steady pace in a 45º to 90º angle. The paint will take longer to dry along the tape edge than on an open wall so make sure the paint against the tape is actually dry and not just tacky dry.
• In cool weather the tape can become brittle and tear during removal. Removal is best between 50º and 80º F.
• Soften the adhesive if the tape is difficult to remove. Use a hair dryer for one to two minutes blowing warm, not hot air about three inches from the masking tape. This is especially helpful when removing the tape where semi-gloss and gloss paint has been applied. Avoid getting the surface hot. A hot surface (and this can happen in direct sunlight too) will melt the adhesive and leave residue on the surface.
• Lightly score the edge of the tape with a painter’s 5-in-1 tool if it proves difficult to remove.
• Remove any adhesive left by the painter’s tape by putting fresh tape over it, burnishing it, and pulling the new tape off. The residue should stick to the new tape. WD-40 (follow the directions) is another way to remove sticky residue.
• When putting two coats of paint on the surface, remove the tape and re-tape for each coat of paint. Painter’s tape is not strong enough to rip through two layers of paint and will rip, leaving pieces on the surface.
Storing Painter’s Tape
It is important to store each tape in a clean box or canister in a cool dry spot. The container not only keeps the tape clean but also keeps the edges from getting nicked and stretched, which would allow paint to seep under the edge. Keep all the labeling information with each tape to avoid trying to remember which tape is for what surface and what application length.
Yes, painter’s tape is expensive but avoid buying too much when it is on sale. Painter’s tape loses some of its stickiness and becomes brittle with long storage.
Paulette Rossi is the former outreach specialist for MetroPaint. She can be contacted through this magazine.
