Interior painting is probably the least expensive (per square foot) home improvement project you can do. There are three types of paint used for interiors: flats, satins, and semi-gloss. Flats and satins are generally used in living rooms, bedrooms, and hallways. A word of caution: flat paints do not stand up well in high traffic areas and they do not clean up well if dirt or smudges appear. It is not recommended to use flats in high-moisture areas such as kitchens or bathrooms. Satins and semi-glosses work best in these areas. Satins have washability and semi-glosses have scrubability. A good choice for interiors is an acrylic blend, which is durable and provides the most service.
Practically all paints today are latex (water based). Always use two coats of paint no matter what the salesperson or the can says. Two coats are much better than one. You are only putting on 1.5 ml per coat. Don’t cut back on the coverage — you want your project to look beautiful, so don’t stretch the paint.
Ignore Warranties
Look for sales, but buy the most expensive paint that you can afford. It is okay to buy quarts for samples, but for the actual project, I recommend 1- or 5 gallon buckets. If your project requires more than 1 gallon, you must “box” or mix the paint from gallon to gallon to assure consistent paint from gallon to gallon. This is why the larger quantity of 5-gallon buckets is recommended. Remember, when you are ordering the paint double the square footage you will paint because you will be applying two coats.
Materials
Use canvas dropcloths to cover floors and other surface areas. Never use disposable brushes. They streak, lose hairs in your work surface, and will make your expensive paint job look bad. I recommend a nylon or polyester blend brush. The same goes for roller covers; never use the throw-away kind as they will make your paint project look shoddy. Spend a little more for the roller cover. It will leave a more consistent job, reduce splatters, and will make your project look professional. A reputable paint dealer can help you select the proper roller thickness and the proper size brush for your project.
Start-up
Here are some basic steps to follow that will make the job much easier. Ninety percent of your job will consist of surface preparation. If you prepare properly, you will have a professional-looking paint job. Surfaces to be repainted must be cleaned before paint application. A mild TSP wash will remove dirt, smudges, cooking oils, etc. Spend the time to wipe down all surfaces, including the ceiling, which can easily be done with a sponge mop. Next de-gloss shiny surfaces. Paint will not stick to surfaces unless the shiny areas are first roughed up. There are excellent liquid de-glossers with pleasant smelling citrus blends available. Homes built before 1978 could contain lead paint. See the box below for links on dealing with lead paint.
The next step is to remove nails and thumbtacks. Fill in holes with a lightweight spackle. If you spackled a big area, use a can of spray texture on the area so that it will match your existing wall texture. It is a good idea to put primer over the areas that you have spray textured. This will make for an even absorption of paint.
Painting
When painting, it is a good idea to do your cut-in (corners and edges) with a tapered brush first and then use a roller for the larger areas. Always work from the top down. Use a wooden or collapsible handle for your roller. It is best to use a “roller ramp” in a five-gallon bucket rather than a roller paint pan. Try to assemble all your tools, drop cloths, and paint so that you don’t have to leave, clean your brushes, and start over again. Be sure to properly vent your work area.
Clean-up
Clean the base of your paint brush and the rollers with soap and water immediately after use. Then put the paint brush back into the sleeve that it came with when you bought it. This will help keep the bristles in good shape. For the rollers, once washed, I like to stand them on end to dry.
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BRUSHES (A) Nylon/Polyester Blend (B) 100% Pure Polyester (C) White China Bristle (D) Synthetic Blend |
(E) 100% Dyed Nylon (F) Nylon Polyester Blend (G) Chinex Polyester Blend |
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ROLLERS (A) 3/4” Synthetic Blend (rough surfaces) (B) 3/8” Synthetic Blend (smooth surfaces) (C) 3/16” Foam (smooth surfaces, varnishes) (D) 1/4” Mohair Fabric (smooth wood) |
(E) 1/2” Dralon (lint free) (F) 1/2” Synthetic Blend (rough surfaces) (G) 1/2” 100% Lambswool (even surfaces) |
Where to find information on lead paint.
The LeadLine provides Oregon callers with information and referrals for local lead programs and services. The LeadLine can be reached at (503) 988-4000 or log on to www.leadline.org to learn more. U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development, Office of Lead Hazard Control has a free field guide, “Lead Paint Safety, A Field Guide for Painting, Home Maintenance, and Renovation Work.” To order a copy of this guide call 1-800-424-5323 or download a copy from the HUD Office of Lead Hazard Control website at www.hud.gov/offices/lead.
United States Environmental Protection Agency, Office of Pollution Prevention and Toxics offers a free pamphlet, “Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home.” You can download a copy and browse this site for more free information www.epa.gov/lead.
How to Dispose of Paint Cans Cans of dried paint and empty paint cans can be discarded in the garbage but first you must remove the lid. If not removed the garbage handlers will not take the cans. If there is a very small amount of paint left in the can (latex only), remove the lid, let it dry and dispose of it in the garbage. Bring partially full or full cans of paint to Metro. Or you can share your paint with friends. For information on where to recycle paint near you, call Metro at 503-234-3000.
